Skin Types and Acne

Your skin type can have an effect on whether or not you will have problems with acne.  Skin type is (generally speaking) genetically related.  If your parents or siblings have oily skin, you may too!

There are 3 main types of skin - dry, oily and combination.  Each skin type has a different risk profile when it comes to the development of acne.

Dry skin

Dry skin, in its severest forms, may also be known as Dermatitis, Ichthyosis, or Eczema.  Generally those with dry skin experience few problems with acne.  Lower levels of oil in the skin cause the dry skin, but also make it more difficult for acne to form.  With lower oil production, it's less likely that hair follicles will become blocked.

Caring for Dry Skin

To ensure that your dry skin gets the proper mositurizer without causing an acne problem, look for a class of moisturizers called humectants that do not contain oil. These contain glycerin, propylene glycol, urea, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, and lactic acid. Humectants work by drawing moisture out of the air and trapping it next to the skin. These are especially effective in more humid climates. Also look for exfoliants such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) that improve the skin's ability to retain moisture by getting rid of dead, dry skin. Alpha Hydroxy Acids help the skin shed these skin cells and replace those skin cells with healthy cells that are able to create a more effective water barrier.  Care must be taken in choosing AHAs.  Using a glycolic acid product can help to exfoliate dead skin cells, but can also be too drying for the skin when used at higher concentrations. 

Oily Skin

The amount of oil that an individual secretes is determined by genetics. It is affected by hormones and and the "end organ response".  The oil gland is considered the "end organ" because it is the gland that is affected by hormonal changes. Many people have similar hormone levels, but produce different amounts of sebum because their glands respond differently.

While the stimulation of the sebaceous glands is not directly responsible for acne, the extra sebum for which they're responsible contributes to blocked pores which leads to acne. Despite the trouble that sebum can cause, it is an important ingredient for the healthy maintenance of the skin. When our skin system is working properly, sebum performs the important job of lubricating the inside of the follicle, the hair and the skin around the follicle.  Sebum can also carry dead skin cells (scale) that sheds from your hair follicle walls.

For many acne sufferers, their body produces more oil than is necessary to lubricate the skin and hair follicles.  When excess oil is produced it can contribute to blocked pores which leads to acne. 

Caring for Oily Skin

There is no way to completely prevent oily skin from occurring, but these tips can help keep oil (and acne) under control.

• Cleanse properly.  Washing with very hot water, harsh soaps or cleansers will not improve existing acne or prevent future flare-ups. In fact, these methods can dry and irritate your skin so badly that you will not be able to use effective acne medications in cream or gel form.
• Use mild cleansers that clean without drying.
• Do not use oil-based cosmetics. Use water-based, non-comedogenic cosmetics.
• Always remove your makeup before going to bed.
• Watch your diet. However, it is not chocolate or sweets that you need to watch, some doctors believe that an increased consumption of iodine aggravates acne, and they suggest reduction or elimination of fish and iodized salt.
• Relax! Doctors have seen a connection between stress and acne for a long time. Studies have shown that the body produces more androgens when a person is under stress.

Combination Skin

Some of us have acne problems only in certain areas.  This is because sebaceous glands can be more active in some areas than in others.  Some areas may also be harder to clean (inside of ears) or may not exfoliate well naturally.  All of these facts can lead to combination skin and acne problems in only certain areas.

Sebaceous glands are generally larger and more active in the region around the nose than other areas of the face. For many with combination skin, the nose tends to be the trouble area. The pores in this area are also larger, in order to accomodate the large flow of oil produced.  Other areas like the chin and mouth can be affected by the menstrual cycle.

Caring for Combination Skin

The trick for caring for combination skin is finding products that prevent breakouts and in the problem areas and keep the cheeks well moisturized.

Look for products in a serum form or lightweight lotions. These can easily be layered with moisturizers or tougher acne medications. Liquid or serum moisturizers are ideal for this problem because they often contain no pore-clogging ingredients. Ingredients to look for in these products are squalane, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, or glycerin. These ingredients have known moisturizing properties and do not need to be in a cream or lotion to provide water-retaining benefits.