Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

General Information:

AHA's are one of the most commonly used ingredients in over the counter products. Alpha-hydroxy acids, commonly referred to as AHA's, are naturally-occurring carbolic acids. The most common AHA, Glycolic acid, is made from sugar cane.  Alpha-hydroxy acids work to control acne by exfoliating (or peeling off) dead skin cells (scale). AHA's work to help rid the skin of unneccesary scale by breaking down the cell wall that binds groups of dead skin cells together. AHA's are commonly used to fight acne because their molecular structure is so small that they fit easily inside the hair follicle, which allows them to exfoliate the inside wall of the hair follicle.

Side Effects

• Alpha-hydroxy acids can cause mild skin irritation, flaking and redness.
• In rare cases, some patients experience more pronounced redness, swelling and crusting.
• Glycolic acid peels should not be performed on pregnant women, or during the breast feeding period.
• Some patients with dark pigmented skin and patients with rosacea may not be ideal candidates and may incur unusual irritation.

One of the most important precautions that can be taken with AHA's is to know the percentage of acid in the products. Always start off at alpha hydroxy acid levels of 10% or less, and always stay at levels where irritation is minimal.

Mandelic acid is the recommended AHA for those with sensitive skin, since it is the most non-irritating. Also, darker skin types should avoid glycolic acid in concentrations higher than 10%, due to the risk of hyperpigmentation.